Salon de l'Agriculture-Les Animaux

Oh Sande, why aren't you in Paris now?  All Kelly and I could say was how much Sande would have loved photographing the Salon de l'Agriculture.  We have been seeing signs in the métro that the Salon was coming.

"I'm Coming..."

It is an annual event that is a really big deal in France.  It is a must visit for the politicians courting the farmer's vote.  We saw President Sarkozy live on the French news Saturday morning walking around the Salon talking to all the farmers.  Every region of France is represented.  It includes several buildings with animals, crops and gastronomy from every department of France, including the overseas departments.

I told Kelly that going to the Salon was on my bucket list so he decided to humor me (was he hoping to see some French politicians there?) and we went first thing Monday morning.  As we waited in line for it to open, we chatted with a husband and wife from the Champagne region who are vintners and come every year to the Salon.  It seemed all of France was arriving to see the Salon.  Once inside we could understand why.  As Kelly put it, "It is like the State Fair on steroids!"  The first building was huge and contained the cows, pigs, sheep and goats.  The horses, donkeys, dogs, cats and birds are in a separate building.

One Corner of the Exhibition Hall

We saw baby chicks hatching in incubators.  I hadn't seen that since Kate was in kindergarten.

Kelly thought these kids were a bit reckless to get so close to this goat.  She was a cute goat and looked pretty harmless. 

A Less Threatening Goat

Angora Goats

"Dalmatian" Sheep

Next we headed over to Destination Mouton to see the sheep.  Kelly found some sheep with spotted heads and legs like dalmatians and bodies with thick wool. They were quite unusual.

Leading the Sheep Past a Judge

Weight Stamped on the Back of a Sheep

Then we saw the ring where they weighed the sheep and showed them off to the judges.  It was interesting to watch the handlers try to move the sheep with a rope around the sheep's neck.  They really didn't want to be led.  Their weight was stamped with dye on their backs after they were weighed in a metal cage.







Our favorite animals were the cows.  They must have taken up over half of the exhibit area.  There were some huge bulls.  Kelly was getting close to this one for a picture when it started snorting and  leaned (he said lunged) forward.  It was tied up but Kelly was taking no chances with those horns.  He quickly moved away and told me this bull would have to get his picture taken solo!

"Rampaging" Bull

Each cow had an identifying number on its ear.  The breed, the cow's name, its parents and their identifying numbers, and its owner were listed above each stall.  These cows had a pedigree!

The Leisurely Life Sans Children

Kate has been in Barcelona with some of the students while Kelly and I have enjoyed a relatively quiet weekend.  We went to an exhibit on Jean-Jacques Rousseau at the Assemblée Nationale to prepare for Kelly's class visit next week.  The Assemblée is like the House of Representatives in the US.  The exhibit had original papers and artifacts of Rousseau and showed his influence on the French Revolution.

Assembleé Nationale

We also went to our first movie--Cheval de Guerre V.O. (War Horse-Version Originale).  It just came out in Paris and we really enjoyed it.  It had subtitles so it is always interesting to see how things are translated into French.  Of course Kelly asked what I thought the meaning of the movie was as we left.  I said I thought that animals bring out your best self.  But I quickly added that it doesn't mean we'll ever get a dog, despite all the pleading from the kids.  Then he started into some big analysis about the horse symbolizing the recognition of excellence and as usual it all sounded much deeper than anything I thought of.
Friday we went to the Jacquemart-André Museum, one of the museums a little off the beaten path.  It is a mansion built in the late 1800s and filled with art collected by one couple.  My favorite is the Supper at Emmaus by Rembrandt hanging in the Study.  A photo just does not do it justice--the painting is absolutely divine.  Upstairs were several rooms filled with Venetian and Florentine art, including choir stalls and architectural features such as arches and columns built into the walls and doorways.  It really was amazing all the art they collected.  They even bought frescoes in Italy and had them installed in the mansion.  The couple had no children so the house was left to France as a museum.

Supper at Emmaus by Rembrandt

We decided that it was such a nice day we would just walk the 2 1/2 miles home.  It was the warmest day we have had in Paris so far.  We passed a chocolate shop with chocolate ties.  We also liked the chocolate cell phones and USB flash drives.

Striped and Flowered Chocolate Ties

Cell Phones and Flash Drives

As we crossed the Seine, we noticed the sun lighting up the statues on the Pont Alexandre.  With beautiful days like this, I don't know that we ever want to leave Paris.

Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche et La Grande Épicerie de Paris

Some of the students told me I could find sweetened condensed milk at the grocery store at Le Bon Marché.  So I decided to check it out myself this week so I could make cheesecake for the students this Monday night for Family Home Evening.  Le Bon Marché is another large department store like Galeries Lafayette or Printemps but for some reason Kate and I had never been there.

Le Bon Marché

I went in the first building I saw as I left the métro.  I tried to find the floor with groceries but it wasn't in that building.  It was a very sophisticated and beautiful store with mostly designer clothing that was open in the center.  This is the view from the escalator.  Paris invented the department store and I think Parisian department stores are the best and most beautiful.

This was the display for Nina Ricci designer clothing.

Nina Ricci Display

I decided that the food must be in another building so I went to see what was next door.  I found another beautiful building containing La Grande Épicerie de Paris.  The store was beautiful and modern.  Everyone shopping there was dressed to the nines.  Macarons, pastries and chocolates greeted me as I entered.

Chocolates Display

I found the sweetened condensed milk near the breakfast foods-only 2.10 euros or almost $3.00 per can.  There was also a beautiful display of fancy pasta in many colors and shapes.

Colorful Pasta

Then I stumbled upon a display with United States-Canadian food.  It was interesting to see what they had.  Some things weren't surprising like Peter Pan peanut butter and chocolate chips.  And they had karo syrup and molasses, both of which I had not been able to find in Paris.  I guess some people crave Snyder's Pretzels in France?  And Ranch, Poppy Seed and French salad dressing?  I found beef jerkey, maple syrup, marshmallow fluff, butterscotch ice cream topping, canned pumpkin, canned cranberries and Ocean Spray cranberry juice and Pam.  Of course everything was quite expensive but if you wanted a Thanksgiving dinner complete with pumpkin pie and canned cranberries, you could get the supplies here.

Peanut Butter, Maple Syrup and Hershey's Chocolate Chips

 The store had lots of interesting food and beautiful displays.  This display of milk bottles with horses on them caught my attention.  I didn't know what lait de jument meant but chevalait sounded like horse milk.  It turned out it was pasteurized organic mare's milk.  I wonder what it tastes like?  Anyone brave enough to try?  It seems there is always something new to discover in Paris.

Mare's Milk

Marathon Ups and Downs

Kelly is preparing to run the Paris Marathon in April and two of our students, Mary Claire and Madeleine, are also planning on running it.

First Run in Paris

Mary Claire and especially Madeleine were in denial when the weather turned so cold.  Madeleine didn't think a pullover was necessary-surely a t-shirt would be enough-and she was wearing a hat.  Here is a picture of them after an evening run in the frigid temps-it looked like they were sunburned when they came back to the apartment!

Mary Claire's right leg has been bothering her above the ankle since she arrived and it has gotten worse.  So Monday we went to the American Hospital to see an Orthopedist and Tuesday we spent most of the day back at the American Hospital getting an MRI and a CT Scan.

Mary Claire at the Hospital Entrance

We'll know the results next week but basically it sounds like no running for Mary Claire for a few weeks.

Mary Claire holding her MRI and CT Scan

So now Madeleine has to run without her sister.  She does some runs with Kelly--but running with him means listening to his stories as they pass Les Égouts de Paris (the Paris Sewers), the Pont d'Alma where Lady Di died, the statue of Thomas Jefferson and the statue of Beaumarchais (a Frenchman who supported the rebels in the American Revolution).  She didn't have to have a history lesson when she ran with Mary Claire.  We all hope Mary Claire heals quickly and she can run the Paris Marathon!

Potpourri Sunday

This is a potpourri post--a little of this and a little of that from the last few days.
There is a new exhibit at the Hôtel de Ville of photographs by Doisneau taken between 1933 and the 1970s at Les Halles, the big Paris market in the center of town that was dismantled and moved to the suburbs in 1971.  Les Halles were nicknamed the "Ventre de Paris" or Belly of Paris by Emile Zola.  In the 1850s there were huge glass and iron buildings in which vegetables, fruit, all kinds of meat, cheese, etc. were sold.  Kelly and I went on Thursday to the exhibit and it was fascinating.  You can see there is usually a line to get in to this free exhibit and it was very crowded.  Doisneau is very popular in Paris and photographed the city for six decades.

Friday night Kelly gave a power point presentation in French at the Institute to French young adults about the American Presidential election and the Republican Primary.  He did a great job speaking French--he had to learn a whole new French vocabulary relating to elections.  They thought the decentralized American system and the Electoral College were very different than the centralized French system.  They asked many good questions.
Saturday I went to the marché at Avenue Saxe behind the Ecole Militaire to buy some fresh meat, vegetables, fruit and eggs.  The market did not disappoint.  This time it was much warmer than when I was there two weeks ago and the place was bustling.  I felt a bit obvious taking pictures, so I wasn't able to get a picture of the tongues in many sizes, depending on the type of animal, for sale.  The pigs ears and feet were there again, too.  There were also several fish and seafood sellers. 

Mussels

All of the produce in France must be marked with its origin.  It is interesting to see where everything comes from-bananas from Martinique, strawberries from Spain, and clementines from Morocco.
And I finally managed to buy those fresh eggs!

Fresh Brown Eggs

The Eiffel Tower was pretty in the misty morning as I left the marché.

Later in the morning I took the students up to the marché aux puces at Porte de Clignancourt.  It is not in the best neighborhood and it is a bit difficult to find from the metro.  On our walk from the metro, I found this scooter and couldn't resist taking a picture.  Hollande is the Socialist candidate running against the conservative incumbent, Sarkozy, for President of France.  I liked how the message mixed the French election with Obama's campaign slogan.

It is difficult to take pictures at the marché aux puces at Porte de Clignancourt.  The sellers are very protective of their privacy and goods.  The marché consists of several markets made up of labyrinthine alleyways with little booths that look like small garages to sell antiques and collectibles.  Things are more expensive here than they are at the flea market we went to a few weeks ago at Porte de Vanves.  Kate snapped a picture of the entrance into the Marché Vernaison where we spent most of our time, and I managed a picture of one of the stalls selling furniture and crystal chandeliers. 

Entrance to the Marché Vernaison

Kate found two costume jewelry rings and some old French 45 records and declared after less than an hour that she was done and ready to go home.

Kate's Daisy Ring

Sunday I decided to use the sweetened condensed milk I bought in Switzerland to make cheesecake for dessert.  Remember those blue tubes?

After using the tubes, I wondered why sweetened condensed milk comes in cans in the US.  Tubes are so much easier!  They are easy to open, it isn't messy and sticky getting the milk out and if you don't use the whole tube, just twist the cap back on and put it in the fridge. 

Madeleine and Mary Claire

Brooke and Ashlie

We had a few students come over after church and we all enjoyed the cheesecake topped with fresh strawberries from the marché.  It made for another perfect Paris Sunday.

Paris je t'aime

Jeff de Bruges Chocolatier

We are in the City of Love and so on Valentine's Day as I did my daily shopping and errands, I looked for Valentine's Day reminders.  Even though the French are proud of their language and fight the anglicizing of their language, English is everywhere in their advertizing.
The White Bakery had special pastries with red hearts on top and on the shelf inside was a big red heart.

Red Hearts in White Cake and other Pastries at White Bakery

French Terms of Endearment

White Bakery Interior

Across the street from our apartment at Le Nôtre there were very fancy pastries.  Everything at Le Nôtre is very good and really expensive.  I hear that if you are asked to dinner and bring something from Le Nôtre along, the host is always impressed.  I wanted one of those big layered hearts with the raspberries!

Le Nôtre Pastries

Flowers were everywhere on the rue Cler, and everything was set out on the sidewalks now that the frigid weather has finally broken after more than two weeks.  Who wouldn't want a bunch of these flowers for Valentine's Day?

au nom de la rose

Even the Papeterie below our apartment had red heart-shaped paper.  I also liked the coin purses on display.  The smallest bill is 5 euros so I am always digging in my purse for 1 or 2 euro coins in addition to the centimes.  Paris shop owners love exact change.  I can get an exasperated look from them if I pay with a big bill and expect change.  This metal coin purse looked like a good way to stay organized-but at 25 euros, it was a bit too expensive to justify the purchase.

Coin Purses in Many Colors

Papeterie Heart

In the Metro I saw a Valentine's Day ad for Picard.  Picard is the store filled only with freezers of frozen food.  Everything tastes better from Picard.  Kate is a fan of their frozen quiche and mango ice cream.

"Fall Instantly in Love Guaranteed"

I also found a few interesting shop windows in the Marais quarter when I went to the Vaissellerie to buy some dishes and glasses (I had broken three glasses in one fell swoop Monday night!).  Everything seemed to be heart-shaped at the pastry shops.

One shop, L'Atelier du Chocolat, had an interesting sign promoting their chocolates for Valentine's Day.  It says  "Chocolatez votre St. Valentin" and turns chocolate from a noun into a verb.  I guess we do that sort of thing in English, too.

The craziest display I saw was at a wine store.  The window was filled with bright pink feathers and hearts.  Nothing says Valentine's Day quite like feathers?

Meanwhile, our students, dressed in red and pink, were exploring Paris, looking for signs of love.  Here are a few of the pictures they took.

Madeleine and Mary Claire at the "I Love You" Wall

Sydney and McCall, Hillary, Danielle, Phoebe and Brooke at Wall of Roses

Sydney and McCall

Brooke with her Rose from the Wall of Roses

Phoebe with a Baguette Heart

Danielle in Jardin des Tuilieries and La Grande Roue

Isn't it all romantic?
That evening, Kelly took his two Valentines to dinner on the rue Cler at the Café Central.  I had penne with a Gorgonzola sauce and fresh asparagus and carrots on top and Kelly and Kate split a four-cheese pizza, complete with goat cheese.  We all shared some frites served in a pewter cup and wrapped in paper with Russian writing.  Kate warned me no picture taking during the dinner although I was sorely tempted to photograph those frites.  Maybe a return visit with Sande is in order?  We decided we were too full for dessert, but the waiter brought over a  platter full of pastries and we couldn't resist sharing a chocolate éclair.  After our meal the waiter brought Kate and me each a red rose. 

After dinner Kelly suggested we take a stroll over towards the Eiffel Tower, despite the light drizzle.  Who can resist the Eiffel Tower on Valentine's Day?  Kate snapped a picture of us with Kelly's iPhone.

Paris je t'aime!