Excursion to St. Quentin--Day 1

On Friday we took a little trip to see friends north of Paris who live near St. Quentin in the Picardy region of France.  It was about a 1 1/4 hour train ride that left from Gare du Nord in Paris.

Kelly in front of the big board waiting for our train

We were told to bring our identification with us to show with our tickets.  Although we watched the conductor hassle someone behind us whose identity was not up to snuff, he didn't even open our passports.  I guess we didn't look like trouble.
Our friend, Dominique Forgon, met us at the train station.  My brother, Brad, met La Famille Forgon while he was on his mission 20 years ago.  Dominique, his wife, Marie-Jo, and children, Christelle and Marie-Do, have visited the family in the US a couple of times.  I was pregnant with Kate when I picked up Brad from his mission with my parents and we spent several days with the Forgons--I hadn't been back to St. Quentin since then.  They live in a little village outside of St. Quentin.  We kept telling Kate she had already been there!

Kate and Kelly arrive at St. Quentin

We picked up Marie-Jo from work and then met Christelle for lunch.  Then we took a little tour of St. Quentin.  We went to La Basilique de St. Quentin first.  It is not technically a Cathedral because it wasn't the seat of a Bishop.  The Basilica was built on the tomb of St. Quentin, a 4th century Christian martyr whose tomb was the destination of pilgrimages.  St. Quentin was the son of a Roman Senator sent to convert the people in Picardy.  He was beheaded and his body thrown in the river Somme.  Fifty-five years later, a blind Roman woman had a vision and was told to go to Gaul and find his body near a bridge over the Somme River.  As the head and body were pulled from the marsh intact, her sight was miraculously restored.  The body was put in a cart to take it for burial and when it reached the site of St. Quentin's martyrdom, it refused to move.  This is where he was buried and the Basilica eventually built beginning in 1195.

Kelly, Marie-Jo and Kate at St. Quentin Basilica

Inside one of the side chapels was a reliquary holding the hand of St. Quentin.  Who knows whether it was the original hand or not.  It certainly looked ancient enough.

Hand of St. Quentin

The Basilica also has a maze or labyrinthe in the stones on the floor.  Either you walked the maze in place of making an actual pilgrimage to Jerusalem or you did it on your knees as a sort of penance.  You can see the pavement stones of the maze in the floor.

Kate, Marie-Jo, Kelly and Dominique on the Labyrinthe

We next went to the main town square of St. Quentin that was surrounded by the Hotel de Ville (town hall), a large Italian Theater and shops.  This is where they have an open air market on Wednesdays and Saturdays.  It was rebuilt in the last few years with lots of underground parking.  Brick is used more in St. Quentin as opposed to stone in other areas of France.  St. Quentin was a haven for refugees from the Netherlands during the wars of religion.  They brought their architecture and their knowledge of linen weaving to St. Quentin.  The textile business is how St. Quentin made its fortune.

Hotel de Ville

There was a huge statue in the square of St. Quentin's famous artist.  In the 1700s, Maurice-Quentin de La Tour was among the most celebrated and accomplished pastel portraitists.  The people of St. Quentin are very proud of him.  You can see the Italian Theater in the background.

Statue of Maurice-Quentin de la Tour

We also discovered that St. Quentin has its own Champs-Elysée, just like Paris.  It is by a large park in the city that is beautiful in the summer with roses and magnolia trees.  We went inside the park and found an old portal to the city that had been moved there.

Gate to the City of St. Quentin

Dominique's Photo of the Park and the City Gate in Spring

We went to the Forgons' home where Kate felt she needed a little rest after all that sight-seeing.  Kelly, Dominique and I decided to go see Laon, a town built on top of a hill about 40 kilometers away.

Laon has one of the oldest Gothic Cathedrals in France--construction began in 1160 and was completed about 1230.  Cathedrals in Chartres, Paris and Amiens, among others, were based on the one in Laon.

Approaching Laon Cathedral

Dominique and Kelly at Laon Cathed

We were surprised to find statues of oxen on the towers of the Cathedral.  We've never seen oxen on Cathedral towers before!  Legend has it that during the construction, a yoke of oxen were having difficulties getting a load of stone up the steep slope.  A mysterious ox appeared to help.  However, as soon as the wagon reached the top, this helpful ox vanished.  The carved oxen at the top of the towers commemorate this miracle

Oxen on Towers of Laon Cathedral

Over the front door of the Cathedral were gargoyles in the shape of a hippopotamus and a rhinoceros.

Hippo Gargoyle

 

Interior of Laon Cathedral

Kelly at a Side Chapel Door

Inside the Cathedral were ornately carved side chapels, some of which were open. We hope to return to the town and Cathedral with the students. 

Laon Cathedral at Night

It was dark as we left the town and headed back to Forgons' little village by St. Quentin.  The Forgons were very proud to show off Picardy to us.  They are so fun to be with and such gracious hosts.  And thank you Dominique for sharing some of your photos for this post.

Sharing Gifts Before Dinner with Teddy, Marie-Do and Marie-Jo

We had raclette for dinner that evening with the whole family, including Marie-Do's boyfriend, Teddy.  Raclette just tastes better in France.  But raclette at the Kriegers' house is a close second.  We had lots of good conversation, although Kelly had to do most of the talking.  Kate and I could pretty much understand everything, but Kate refused to open her mouth and speak French.  When I tried to talk, it was pretty pathetic.  But we all got along well and had a wonderful visit.  We had a Tarte Tatin for dessert that Christelle made.  It is an upside tarte with carmelized apples on the bottom.  She baked a "fève" inside like they do with the Galette des Rois.  Kate had the fève in her piece so she was the king for the evening.  Kate has good luck--she is now 2 for 2 when it comes to King's Cakes!

Jeanene, Kate, Christelle, Dominique, Kelly, Marie-Jo, Teddy and Marie-Do Ready to Eat Raclette

It was a wonderful evening.  My next post will be about our adventures on Saturday with the Forgons.