Andrew picked the best week so far to visit Paris. The week started off a bit cool, but there was no rain and by the time he left it was 70 degrees. All the trees were popping. It was glorious.
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Drew at the Marché |
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Walking home from the Marché |
Andrew arrived Saturday, March 19, the day Brad and Ryan left. I went to the airport with Brad and Ryan in their taxi and brought Andrew back with me on the train. Our first stop was the Saturday Marché behind École Militaire to buy lasagna and the essentials for Sunday dinner. Next, to keep him awake and moving, we went around the corner to Les Invalides to the Army Museum. Andrew loves the area of the museum devoted to World War I and II.
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Andrew and Kelly in front of Les Invalides and Napoleon's Tomb |
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Cannons at Les Invalides and the Eiffel Tower |
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Inside the courtyard of Les Invalides |
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Andrew at WW I Museum in front of Paris taxi used to transport soldiers to the front |
That evening we had dinner at our favorite café on the rue Cler, Café Central, and took a walk over to the Eiffel tower. We noticed a person in the café dressed like he had been riding horses. There was some kind of jumping competition going on by the Grand Palais Éphémère on the Champ de Mars.
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Andrew and Kelly at Café Central |
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Drew and horse ambulance on the Champ de Mars |
My cousin Lisa arrived the next morning from Idaho. Her husband Ryan had visited the week before with my brother Brad. They couldn't come at the same time because she was chaperoning her daughter's school trip. We were able to keep Lisa awake by walking to the Rodin Museum on the other side of Les Invalides.
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Andrew, Lisa and me at Les Invalides |
The museum is in Rodin's mansion and studio and is beautiful inside and out. The grounds have great views of the dome at Les Invalides.
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Drew and Lisa thinking below The Thinker from the Gates of Hell |
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In Rodin's Garden |
We walked home around the other side of Les Invalides with the great Eiffel Tower view.
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Lisa and me |
The next morning, Monday, Lisa's daughter Caroline arrived during her high school spring break.
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Lisa, Caroline, Andrew and me on our apartment stairs |
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Caroline, Andrew and me in front of the BYU apartment
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We took advantage of the warm weather and went to Sacré Cœur and Montmartre to see the artists. Lisa and I took the funicular up the hill while Andrew and Caroline claimed it was an easy climb up all those stairs.
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Andrew, Lisa and Caroline below Sacré Cœur |
We were enjoying the sunshine but not the crowds the warm weather was bringing.
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We stopped for gelato and ate as we strolled down the back side of Montmartre, which had an entirely different feel than the tourist side in the front.
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Le Lapin Agile |
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La Maison Rose |
That evening the Eiffel Tower looked magical!
On Wednesday, Kelly and Andrew set out on the P Train to the east of Paris to Chateau Thierry to see Belleau Wood, a World War I battle site. Belleau Wood is about 6 or 7 miles from the little town of Chateau Thierry. We had read that you could take a taxi from the train station out to Belleau Wood and follow a trail that told the story of the Allied victory and first major engagement of the US Army in World War I. The bravery of the Marines turned the tide of the war on the Western Front against the Germans.
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Marine Poster at WW I Museum Chateau Thierry |
Unfortunately, nothing was as expected, probably because it was still March and not really tourist season. There were no cabs at the train station and nobody responded to their Uber request. They did find the tourist office and the nice women called three different places but nobody was willing to take them out to Belleau Wood. Chateau Thierry is the birthplace of Jean de La Fontaine, the 17th century French "Aesop," famous for his fables. But the museum at his birthplace was closed. So they walked around the ruins of the chateau and called it good and headed back to Paris to meet us for crêpes at Malo in Printemps.
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Andrew at chateau entrance |
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View of Chateau Thierry |
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View from the chateau
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Andrew at the chateau |
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Kelly at the chateau overlooking the town |
While Kelly and Andrew were off on their adventure, I took Lisa and Caroline to the Louvre for my highlights tour. We arrived just before it opened and headed straight to the Mona Lisa before all the crowds could get there. The painting really is small and behind plexiglass and so hard to see properly.
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Winged Victory |
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Mona Lisa |
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Venus de Milo |
We loved the tête-a-tête chairs for three people in Napoleon III's apartments. We could imagine all the interesting conversations going on in these beautiful salons.
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Caroline and Lisa at Napoleon's Apartments |
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Tête-a-tête chair |
One of my favorites in the medieval French statues room is the tombstone commissioned by a knight while he was still alive. It is really over the top!
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Knight's Tomb |
We emerged from the Louvre into gorgeous sunshine and caught the bus to meet Kelly and Andrew for crêpes at Printemps.
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Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel |
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Caroline and Lisa at the Louvre Pyramid |
The Malo restaurant at Printemps has become one of our favorite spots. You can't beat the view from the 7th floor of Printemps. And the savory buckwheat crêpes and the dessert crêpes are top notch. We have eaten there with everyone who comes to visit. Below is a picture of my brother Brad with the goat cheese, spinach, honey and walnut buckwheat crêpe and a pear, salted caramel and slivered almonds dessert crêpe.
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Brad with my favorite crêpes at Malo |
We love the view of the Eiffel Tower from the terrace.
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Andrew's view of the Eiffel Tower |
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Caroline, Lisa and Drew at Malo |
The next morning we visited the Museum of the Liberation of Paris near the Catacombs. For a week in August 1944 the underground bunker was used as the command post of the Resistance to coordinate with General Leclerc's arrival to liberate Paris. We walked down 100 steps to see the bunker and climbed back up those 100 steps.
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Only 75 more steps to go to get out of the bunker |
We ate lots of good food while Andrew and the cousins were here. Caroline had her first grec (gyro) stuffed with french fries. And we visited our favorite crêpe stand at Odéon. The best ones there are Nutella and banana-with a whole banana sliced in it-and the cheese with the cheese coming out the top and crispy from the griddle.
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Caroline and her Grec |
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Lisa, Andrew and Caroline ordering crêpes |
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Crêpe stand at Odéon |
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Lisa's husband Ryan with a cheese crêpe during his earlier visit |
We checked on the status of the renovations at Nôtre Dame and visited Sainte-Chapelle. I liked seeing the gargoyle up close. You could better understand how they are rain spouts with the opening down the back and the open mouth where the water comes out.
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Nôtre Dame |
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Lisa and Caroline in Sainte-Chapelle |
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Gargoyle in the Lower Chapel at Sainte-Chapelle |
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Saint Louis in Lower Chapelle of Sainte-Chapelle |
I also took Lisa and Caroline to Bon Marché. We love going there for the food but also visited the department store. The current artist installation in the store included large hot pink figures. It was hard to know what to make of them.
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Lisa and Caroline at Bon Marché |
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Bon Marché |
We had such gorgeous weather for Andrew, Lisa and Caroline. They were so lucky there was no rain. They enjoyed the sun on the rue Cler and at the Tuileries Gardens. Paris showed off her best side for their visit and we were sad to say goodbye.
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Crêpes on the rue Cler |
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Caroline and Andrew at the Tuileries Gardens |
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Sunbathing at the Tuileries |
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Andrew, Lisa and Caroline at the Tuileries Fountain |
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