Monday, March 3, 2025

Salon International de l'Agriculture

One of the reasons we love coming to Paris in the winter is being able to attend the annual Salon International de L'Agriculture at the end of February. It is like a state fair (minus the rides) on steroids. There are four sectors at the Salon: Livestock; Crops and Gardening; Agricultural Services and Trades; and Products and Flavors from France, Overseas Territories and the World.

Farmers come from all over France with their cows, sheep, goats and pigs. Another building has cats and dogs and another horses. Other buildings have food and products grouped by the various regions of France, France's territories, or other countries.

Kelly and James with Oupette
We were excited that James Mayo would be visiting the week of the Salon. He had never been before in all his travels to France. And the Salon is the quintessential real French experience.

Every year a cow is chosen as the mascot of the Salon. This year it was Oupette, a six-year-old Limousin cow from Vienne, the birthplace of Limousin cattle. Vienne is just south of the Loire Valley near Poitiers.

Oupette













The daily newspaper at the Salon is named after Oupette.

La Gazette d'Oupette
Oupette is enthusiastically described on the Salon's website as follows:

"Always well-groomed, Oupette is a brilliant example of the Limousin breed: a vibrant wheat-colored coat, bright mucous membranes, and strong maternal qualities. At six years old, she is expecting her fourth calf by the end of the year, which will also make the trip to the Paris International Agricultural Show 2025. Attentive to her young, she is destined for a promising career as a breeder—and much more!"

I'm not really sure what "bright mucous membranes" means? I think something got lost in the translation from French to English.

View of the Pigs
Butchering Competition

We arrived at the Salon first thing in the morning on a Monday, knowing that afternoons and weekends get very crowded. We found our way to the building containing the food and products of the regions of France since this area gets very crowded by lunchtime.

Eiffel Tower of Veggies
Soldier made of 
Salted Butter Caramel Fondant















Kelly loved the salted butter caramel fondant at the stand where they also sold nougat. Boulangers from the Paris region set up their ovens and were baking baguettes, croissants, pains au chocolat and more.

Preparing Baguettes for the oven
The ovens use steam to
get the right texture and
density














Cutting Croissant Dough
It is always interesting to see vendors representing different regions wandering through the fair along with musical performers.

Les Joyeux Vendéens
from the Vendée Region
on the Atlantic Coast











We tried too many samples at the booth with chocolates from southwestern France where Kelly and James served their missions. The woman was surprised that they knew her small city of Rodez. She was a good saleswoman-we walked out with over 100 euros of her excellent chocolate! Kelly took some of the chocolate to work at Sciences Po to share. His colleagues were surprised and impressed that he had been to the Salon and they loved the chocolate.

Kelly at the Chocolate Booth
Kelly and Southwest France
Kelly at the Agen Booth














The small town of Agen was Kelly's first area on his mission. It is famous for its prunes. Note the sign on the booth with a bit of semi-English thrown in-"Prunes of Agen Veri-Good!" The Pyrenées were also in their mission and well represented at the Salon.

James and Kelly Pyrenées Region
More of the Pyrenées











The Normandy region included women spinning and knitting wool.

Spinning wool with her feet

Knitters










Leeks in Boots









We loved the Alsace booth with women in traditional Alsation dress. Their hats look like big black bows.

Alsace
Alsace














Restaurants are set up around the edges of this pavilion serving good regional food.

Big Batch of
Cheesy Potatoes
Beer and Iced Tea Bar










We really enjoyed visiting the tourist bureau for the area of the Aude in southern France that is partially on the Mediterranean coast. The old walled city, Carcassonne, is the capital of the Aude. A man with a microphone was trying to engage people walking by so they would stop and see what the Aude has to offer. He stuck a microphone in my face and all I could think to say in French was that I was American! He quickly moved on to Kelly and James, who could speak French much better. 

He offered us apple, grape and pear fruit juices to sample but not buy-he said we would have to visit the Aude to purchase those. Then he talked James into posing on the windsurf board and suddenly jumped on behind him! As we left, we could hear him saying, "There go two Americans and I think a Canadian." James has such a good French accent, the man thought he must be French Canadian. In his mind, an American could not speak French as well as James does.

Surfing on the Mediterannean
We walked to another building to find the products from the overseas islands that are part of France. This area had a distinctly different breezy island vibe. James spent part of his mission on the island of Corsica in the Mediterranean Sea.

Corsica
Corsican Coastline
James found some Corsican honey to sample and buy.

Corsica Honey
It was time to go to see the cows and other animals.  We also saw pigs, sheep and goats.

White Goats
Brown Goats














Sheep
Sow with her Piglets











We headed to the cow ring to watch the judging of the mahogany colored Rouge Flamande cows from the Nord-Pas-de-Calais and Picardy regions in northern France. The breed is bred mainly for its milk that is used to make mimolette and other cheeses. As we approached they were showing off the winner in the younger age category. We took a seat in the bleachers and watched the competition in progress. 

Winner of the Younger Division
Winner of the Older Division














We watched the judges choose the winner in the older division. It was interesting to see the range of color of the Rouge Flamande cows. The older cow was almost black and the younger more red. Then it was time for a face-off to choose the grand champion.

Choosing the Grand Champion
The younger cow on the left was chosen as the grand champion. They were both beautiful cows. The announcer said the winner was chosen because she had the perfect form for the breed and because she was younger and had a better future ahead of her. I was rooting for the older cow on the right. I thought her deep color was beautiful and she had more heft to her. 

There was still much more to see at the Salon. We didn't make it to see the dogs and cats, the horses and donkeys. And we missed the building with the International food and products. There is so much to see and do you could spend several days at the Salon de l'Agriculture. It is truly a slice of real France.

Sunday, March 2, 2025

The Rebirth of Nôtre Dame

We watched in horror on television as Nôtre Dame burned in April 2019. The brave firefighters volunteered to climb up the belfry towers to put out the flames. It was too dangerous to compel them to go in the towers, but the volunteers knew it was the only way to save the beloved cathedral. As the mother of a firefighter, I understood how brave those firefighters were. Nobody gave them explicit permission to go in the belfries but they went anyway. 

President Macron announced that Nôtre Dame would reopen in five years-a very aggressive timetable. We were so happy when it reopened in December 2024, just before we came to Paris.

Kate at Nôtre Dame
View of Nôtre Dame 
from the side
Kelly at Nôtre Dame














There are free tours of the outside of Nôtre Dame every day at 2:30. Some days they also give the tours in English. Kelly and I took advantage of one of these tours soon after we arrived in Paris. We learned some new things from our excellent French guide, Nicolas, who lived for a few years in Houston. He told us that the relics from Sainte Chapelle, including the Crown of Thorns, are kept in the Treasury at Nôtre Dame. When the fire erupted, the man with the key to the safe containing the relics was at a soirée out at Versailles. He had to hurry back to the cathedral and get through police lines where he was initially turned back. He had to break through the police lines and run. But then he was so nervous he couldn't remember the code to turn the key in the safe. He had to call another code holder as pieces of wood rained down in the burning cathedral.

Nave of Nôtre Dame
The entrance to the cathedral is now through the center doors, which were rarely opened in the past. We couldn't get over how light and bright it was. And warm! Kelly noticed that immediately.
















Kelly contemplating the
enormity of Nôtre Dame














The rose windows are so vivid and bright. Just stunning.

North Rose Window
South Rose Window














We were so worried that the carvings and statues inside Nôtre Dame would be destroyed but everything seemed to survive. The wooden carvings telling the story of the life of Jesus were beautifully restored.

Carving of the Nativity
Adoration of the Magi















Baptism of Christ
Christ's Triumphal Entry
into Jerusalem














The Last Supper
Resurrected Christ in the Garden














"Doubting" Thomas and Disciples
at the Sea of Gallilee
Joan of Arc is one of the patron saints of France. She was canonized in 1920 and many churches in France have a statue of Saint Joan of Arc. I also found one of my favorite statues in the cathedral of Joseph, the carpenter, with Jesus in a new spot. It is inside a confessional room instead of one of the small side chapels.
Jeanne d'Arc
Joseph with Jesus















With Kate
North Rose Window

Gothic cathedrals were originally painted and very colorful inside. During the Renaissance and the reign of Louis XIV, Gothic architecture became very out of fashion. Louis XIV ordered the interior of Nôtre Dame to be scrubbed clean of all that paint. Some of the side chapels near the back of the cathedral have been repainted similar to how they would have originally looked.

Painted Chapel
Painted Chapel


 












There was a memorial to the firefighters who saved Nôtre Dame that included a firefighter helmet. The original, somewhat melted, rooster from the spire is also on display. The rooster is a symbol of France.

Tribute to Firefighters
Rooster














Organ Loft














Nôtre Dame has been very busy and full of people every time we have visited. The first time we went, we were able to get a free timed ticket for entry two days ahead. Only three days are available at a time. But lately, the tickets are always gone when we check. There is a line for those without tickets which is long but moves quickly. James Mayo was visiting from Provo this week and we went in the morning at 9 am and we got right in. When we came out, the line was very long. The cathedral opens around 8 am so coming first thing in the morning and on a weekday seems to be the best way to avoid the lines. With spring coming and more tourists, I imagine it will just become more crowded.

James at Nôtre Dame
There is still construction on the exterior of the cathedral. The workers have been returning the statues that go up the sides of the spire on the roof. Although the spire burned and fell in the fire, the statues were saved because they had been taken down four days earlier to be restored. You can see the crane on the side of Nôtre Dame where they are still working on the exterior.
















It is amazing what they were able to accomplish in less than five years to restore the cathedral. It is so wonderful to have Nôtre Dame back. We missed this magnificent cathedral.